In honor of the recent publishing of our BRAND NEW Milady Standard Barbering book (seriously you have to see how amazing this thing is). We wanted to share one of the most popular step-by-steps of 2016. Working with some of the top barbers in the world for this book, we perfected the technique so you can be at the top of your game all the time. 

And yes-- That IS Fern The Barber! 

1. Select the appropriate blade size to leave the hair in the back and sides at the desired length.
2. On your preferred side, use the freehand clipper technique to establish a guide in the side section. Rock the clipper out at the point on the head where you will later create transition areas from shorter to longer sections.

   

3. Repeat cutting procedure on opposite side.
4. Establish a guide in the center back section from the nape to the mid-occipital area.
5. Cut the panels left and right of center through the back section, then blend and connect to the side guides.

   

6. Go back over previously cut areas to fine-tune your work and check side lengths for evenness and balance.
7. Dampen top section. . Comb hair back toward the crown, allowing the hair to fall naturally over the curves of the head.
8. Stand in back of your client.  Part off a ¼”to ½”parting in the center of the top section from the front to crown.

   

9. Stand at client’s side. Starting at the forward most part of the crown, project the hair at 90 degrees to establish a guide length for the top section.
10. Using the guide from the crown, use a diagonal finger placement and slight over-direction  to gradually leave the hair longer as you move toward the front.

    

11. Comb through the section and check your work.
12. Maintaining a side position create a 1/4" parting parallel to the center guide. Comb and over-direct the parting to the center top guide for cutting
13. Continue over directing the hair from the parietal area up to the top guide and cut until the length no longer reaches the top guide.  Be sure to maintain clean sections, even tension, and cut flush to this guideline at all times.
14. Move behind the client and comb the hair back. Create a 1/4" parallel parting just to the right of the center panel on the right side. Return to the side standing position
15. Comb through both the parallel parting and center panel to create a slight over-direction of the parting to the center top guide. Cut the parting to the guide.

    

16. Continue cutting hair from the parietal area up to the top.
17. Move behind the client and comb through the top sections to check hair horizontally and blend as needed.  
18. Comb through the top section and just above the occipital area, take a vertical parting from the center back.

    

19. Project the parting at 90 degrees and using the shortest length at the occipital as a guide, cut and blend the shorter back area with the longer crown section.
20. Pivot through the crown section as you cut and blend the hair from the back into the left side area.
21. Return to the center back to cut and blend toward the right side.
22. Use the clipper-over-comb or freehand technique with the appropriate clipper blade size to fade and blend shorter lengths to longer lengths in the top sections.

    

23. Move to the side sections and blend through the parietal ridge as needed.
24. Finish blending the back section using a combination of clipper-over-comb, shear-over-comb, or freehand clipper techniques as you prefer.
25. To fine-tune your work, dampen hair and re-check the blending from the hairline through the parietal ridge and around the head.
26. Tighten the blend and fade at sides and back according to the desired length, hair texture and growth pattern as necessary.

    

27. To style, re-mist the hair if necessary and apply a light gel product. Over-direct the hair over the curve of the head while drying. Be sure to follow the brush with the dryer heat from the scalp to the ends. While applying the heat, roll hair and turn the ends under to create a finished look.
28. Re-apply styling product as needed and comb the hair into place.
29. Use an outliner to define the hairline and perform a neck shave if requested by your client.
30. Perform final clean up, remove any stray hair clippings, and show your client the results in the mirror.