Margaret likes to keep her hair short and edgy. Since hair is on the coarser side with a heavy density, I have to be careful with my approach. A coarse texture at a shorter length tends to spring up because it doesn't have enough weight to control it. And a heavy density tends to expand when it's cut uniform at a shorter length. I solved this problem by compartmentalizing and using a lot of disconnect to help the hair lay flatter and more manageable. Watch the video below to see how I tackled Margaret's cut.
I began the haircut on the front side. Using vertical sections allowed me to keep a short finger length layer controlled by my finger angle. I worked to just past the ear before refining around the front hairline and ear. Afterward, I continued the finger length layer into the back. The length of the layer grew due to the curvature of the head at the parietal ridge. The goal was to remove weight and by creating negative space so I continued a finger length layer following the curvature of the head just above the parietal ridge. When the entire right side was completed I refined the nape with a scissor over comb technique. I then I repeated the entire process on the opposite side. Completing one side before the other is really just my preference. So if you like to work both sides at the same time for balance then go for it.
Next, we cut the fringe. I isolated the amount we wanted to set the overall length. Now, remember the challenge that we have with Margaret's hair is the combination of coarse texture and high density. To help control the hair we then layered into the fringe to create negative space. I combed the hair behind the fringe over and refined to taste.
Afterward, we moved to the top. Isolate a portion of hair behind the apex. This part of the haircut is meant to be styled forward. So I front of the isolated panel choose a length for the internal layer that will remove weight. Direct everything in front of that back to a stationary guide to keep the length that falls over the fringe.
Because this haircut is made up of several overlapping panels the haircut will need regular maintenance. It's important to have this conversation both at the start and end of the service to ensure the haircut always looks its best.
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