Everyone that knows me knows I’m an advocate for foundational haircutting. Understanding how and why it works gives me complete control of the outcome. When I’m on the road teaching I get a lot of questions about a foundational approach to commercial work. There’s a big misconception that it does not apply in situations where the hair is not short, structured, and disciplined. I, like most of the stylists who attend my lectures, am a full-time stylist in a salon. The majority of work I do is long, textured and largely commercial in appearance. Here is one of my approaches to a medium length layered bob. It’s become a solid go to when my client is of the right texture, density, and maintenance level.
Let me first begin with a breakdown of who this haircut works for. I like using this approach whenever I get a client who is looking to maintain a certain length but is looking to create more volume and movement on the interior. I start with a layer. The goal is to elevate the hair high enough to remove weight and direct it back enough to save length in the front. This will give a lot of movement and volume to the hair in the parietal/crown. Depending on the length you’ve chosen the hair around the hairline will fall out, thus preserving a dense enough perimeter to give shape to length. I’ve found that beginning with my layer also helps to streamline the process by minimizing the amount of hair I will cut in the perimeter.
Once the layer is complete move on to your length. The goal here is to shorten the length in the back while keeping it in the front. This will help change the overall shape of the haircut without sacrificing too much of the overall length. I’ve found that most people push their hair in front of their shoulders. Their perspective of their hair is mostly limited to what they can see in front. Rarely do they get the chance to see their profile. This gives me the opportunity to change the haircut in a more significant way while still respecting a length restriction.
To give the haircut a more custom look direct the hair just around the front hairline forward and to a high elevation. This will give the front of the haircut more volume and movement without taking away from the effect of the layer I started with.
You can customize further by giving more movement to the hair using a thinning scissor or razor as long as the texture and density can support it. Like any haircut, it’s important to have a conversation regarding the proper styling products, tools and future visits needed to maintain its shape!
Textured One-Length Cut: A Tutorial with Christian Awesome
Artist Spotlights: Zan Ray
Proud hairdresser. Passionate educator. Follow me on insta - Christianawesome
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