Ben is going on a three-week long road trip and is looking for something a bit shorter than usual. After a consultation, we decided on a classic crew cut, short on the sides and top but customized to give a little texture and versatility up top.
I started this haircut by checking for variations in hair texture, density, formation and bone structure. I like to use my spray bottle to mist and separate the hair on top of the head from the sides. Once the head is parted I like to set a guide for myself using a clipper over comb technique. I prefer not to use the same progression when cutting men’s hair. Every hair type and bone structure calls for something different. With Ben, setting a guide and working down from longest to shortest tends to agree with his needs the best.
Once the guide is set I use a 3 guard on my Oster 76s that cuts at 3/4 of an inch to blend up into the guide. I like to keep the area I cut limited to what needs blending rather than cutting over anything that will be cut shorter later. This helps me to maintain a pace that keeps up with my demand in the salon. Once complete, I use a blend up into the previous at 1/2 an inch using a 2 guard. Next, I blend into the above using a 1 1/2 blade. To complete I cut any remaining hair around the sides and hairline using a 1 blade. The rest of the progression is spent on refining any weight lines and using a scissor over comb to polish the haircuts silhouette.
Once the sides are finished I blend into the top using the sides as a guide. After the top is blended I give the length shape by cutting a flat layer. Ben likes the option to style his hair with lots of texture, So to refine, I’ll pointcut using my comb to help me cut parallel into the hair to minimize too much weight removal. It’s at this point that I will apply product. I make it a point to educate here on how to style and maintain a haircut. For Ben, I coach on applying the product to his wet hair. The moisture helps the product move through his hair and gives a lived-in finish once dry. I give advice on how to use the blow dryer and a vented brush to finish and recommend a date and time for a return visit. Most of my guys come in every two weeks which is well within my demand So we usually book two appointments out to make sure he gets a time that works best for him. Need help with this step? This online class can help.
Photo: Christian Awesome
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